This month, Sahar Axel takes us through Stockholm, a city where fika culture meets Nobel Prize ceremonies and ABBA’s legacy lives on in every corner. Originally from Kibbutz Yotvata in southern Israel’s desert, Sahar traded Tel Aviv’s intensity for Stockholm’s Nordic rhythm. After years of nomadic wandering, she’s found an unexpected home in the Swedish capital – here’s her take on what makes this city truly wonderful.

Hi! I’m Sahar Axel, and I’m a writer and Hebrew teacher at Citizen Cafe. I was born and raised in Kibbutz Yotvata in southern Israel. I spent almost a decade in Tel Aviv and left Israel in 2021. After several years of living abroad, I’ve found a special connection to Stockholm – a city whose rhythm feels both calm and electric. I love words and languages, and I write every spare moment I have, often from a corner café or during long walks by the Baltic waters. I love the extremes of the Swedish Capitol, the quiet, dark winters, and the bright, endless summer days. After years of nomadic travel, this city, unassuming at first glance, somehow feels like home. 

1. Where do I get my coffee?

📍 Johan & Nyström – Swedenborgsgatan 7, 118 48 Stockholm

There’s a special word in Swedish – “fika”. It literally describes the act of going for coffee with friends, and it’s an essential part of Swedish life. Coffee is deeply significant here, so it’s hard to choose just one spot. If I had to, my personal favorite would be in Södermalm – Stockholm’s trendy southern neighborhood, full of excellent cafés. I love working on my laptop at Johan & Nyström; the coffee is fantastic, they sell freshly ground beans, the playlist is always on point, and the place feels cozy and intimate. I swear that they have some of the best kanelbullar (Swedish cinnamon buns) in the city, so I must advise that moderation is essential whilst visiting Johan & Nyström.

2. Where do I go when I’m feeling fancy?

📍 Restaurant Pelikan – Blekingegatan 40, 116 62 Stockholm

One of the oldest restaurants in Stockholm, with roots dating back to the 17th century, Pelikan is perfect for a date night or a gathering with loved ones. The menu offers Swedish staples like pickled herring, deer stew, and some of the best meatballs you’ll ever have. The staff is kind and attentive, the style is timeless, and the atmosphere is warm and welcoming. I’d recommend reserving a table in advance, or you might be in for a long wait. Patience in queues is a virtue I had to master as an Israeli living abroad.

3. Cultural hub

📍 Skansen – Djurgårdsslätten 49-51, 115 21 Stockholm

From the wonderful Fotografiska in Södermalm to countless museums scattered across the city, Stockholm is rich in art and culture. One of my favorite things to do is take a boat from Slussen to Djurgården – an island filled with museums. From the world-famous ABBA Museum to the fascinating Viking Museum, there’s something for everyone. I’d especially recommend Skansen, the world’s oldest open-air museum. With its historical buildings, Nordic animals, and the annual Midsommar celebration, it’s well worth a visit (especially after belting out “Dancing Queen” at the ABBA Museum).

4. My go-to outdoor spot

📍 Skinnarviksberget, Södermalm

With over 25,000 islands in the Stockholm archipelago, plus countless parks and trails, it’s hard to choose a favorite outdoor spot. But once again, my loyalty to South Stockholm shines through. For me, the best view of the city is from Skinnarviksberget. the perfect place for sunset watching, picnics, and my personal favorite, a little pakał kaffe (coffee kit) moment. It’s the best way to enjoy the Stockholm skyline free of charge, surrounded by locals and travelers alike. Skinnarviksberget is a favorite spot for rogue teenagers and loved-up couples – always dynamic, and yet it carries a sense of tranquility that can only stem from the spectacular Stockholm skyline. Other favorites include the sprawling Vinterviken Park in the southwestern part of Stockholm, and Rosendals Trädgård in Djurgården, perfect for fika and a summer walk.

5. A place that I don’t like in the city

📍 Östermalm, Stockholm

I suppose I’m not a huge fan of Östermalm. Think how those who reside in Williamsburg look at the upper east side, and as someone who spends most of her time in South Stockholm, I always found Östermalam to be just a bit too fancy. It’s considered Stockholm’s upscale area, and while the famous Östermalms Saluhall market is undeniably beautiful and historic, it’s also overpriced. You can find the same dishes, often tastier and for a better price, elsewhere. That said, if you’re into luxury shopping, Östermalm is the place for you:  think Prada, Louis Vuitton, and local favorites like Tiger of Sweden and Acne Studios.

6. A significant person for you who was born in the city or currently lives there

Stockholm is home to many great thinkers and artists. Each year, the Nobel Prize ceremony takes place here, honoring some of the world’s brightest minds in literature, science, and peace. 

But just as you can’t escape The Beatles in Liverpool, you can’t escape ABBA in Stockholm. From visiting the ABBA Museum on Djurgården to tracing their artistic footsteps through Gamla Stan, their presence is everywhere, joyful, nostalgic, and proudly Swedish. Both Björn Ulvaeus and Benny Andersson reside in Stockholm, and their music remains deeply ingrained in the city’s everyday rhythm. Whether it’s playing softly from a café, echoing from a passing boat, or lighting up a late-night bar, it reminds you that Stockholm has a heartbeat – and sometimes, it sounds a lot like Disco.

Photo: AVRO/Beeld en Geluid Wiki (CC BY-SA 3.0 NL)