CITY

Jerusalem: My Center of Gravity

Yonatan came for film school. Five years and three neighborhoods later, here’s the city he knows by heart

Yonatan Shiray
|
5 min read

Hi, I’m Yonatan. I’m a teacher and Student Advisor at Citizen Café, and a filmmaker across various fields. I’m newly engaged and getting married to my partner, Alma, this September.

I’ve been living in Tel Aviv for the past year, but before that, I spent five magical years in Jerusalem while studying at the “Sam Spiegel” Film School. During that time, I lived in three different neighborhoods, which allowed me to truly experience the depth of one of the most complex and captivating places in the world. It’s a city rich with diverse flavors, colors, and people – a place of endless creative inspiration that will forever hold a special place in my heart.

1. Where do I get my coffee?

📍Liba Cafe – Shats St 4, Jerusalem

Tucked away on one of Jerusalem’s most picturesque pedestrian streets, right in the heart of the city center, sits my absolute favorite spot, Liba. It is perfectly situated just a short and scenic walk from the light rail, hidden enough to feel like a local secret while being close to all the main city spots.

For those who are truly obsessed with coffee (like me), this place is a sanctuary. They roast their own signature beans on-site, so the aroma of fresh coffee hits you before you even walk through the door. Beyond the caffeine, they serve simply excellent artisanal pastries and sandwiches that are always fresh. The atmosphere is young, chic, and effortlessly creative, drawing in a local crowd of students and artists. It has that unique, local Jerusalem vibe that is hard to find anywhere else in the city. It’s the perfect place to sit with a book or just soak in the neighborhood energy.

2. Where do I go when I’m feeling fancy?

📍 Mona Restaurant – Shmu’el ha-Nagid St 12, Jerusalem

Mona, Mona, and once again, Mona. For me, this isn’t just the best restaurant in Jerusalem, it’s my favorite in all of Israel. While it is definitely fancy, it is worth every bit of it.

Tucked inside the historic Artists’ House at the old Bezalel campus, this gem by Chef Moshiko Gamlieli has become a legendary Jerusalem institution. The atmosphere is truly magical, blending a sense of history with a sophisticated, modern culinary experience. It is the kind of place where the food and the setting come together to create something unforgettable.

Over the years, it has become our ultimate go-to spot. We keep coming back time and again to celebrate our most special events and milestones there.

3. Cultural hub

📍 Cinémathèque – Jerusalem Hebron Rd 11, Jerusalem

No place captures the creative soul of Jerusalem quite like the Cinematheque. Perched right on the edge of the Hinnom Valley, it has become my ultimate refuge for both art and connection.

While the Jerusalem Film Festival brings a world-class energy and a certain “red-carpet” buzz every summer, the real heart of the place is found in its daily routine. It’s the late-night screenings of cult classics that bring together the city’s true cinephiles, creating an atmosphere that is both nostalgic and edgy.

But for me, the experience truly begins when the lights come up. Whether we are huddled inside the cozy café or sitting out on the terrace with the Old City walls as our backdrop, it is the perfect spot for “post-movie gossip.” We spend hours there, dissecting every frame and sharing those sharp, cynical takes that only true film lovers have. It’s that rare mix of high culture and local chatter that makes this place my absolute favorite center of gravity in the city.

Photo: Yoram Shoval, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0

4. My go-to outdoor spot

📍 Valley of the Cross Promenade

When I lived in Rehavia, the Valley of the Cross Promenade wasn’t just a walking path, it was the neighborhood’s unofficial meeting point. There’s an unwritten rule in the area that as soon as the sun starts to dip, everyone heads there. It’s the ultimate “golden hour” ritual.

The trail offers a perfect escape, winding along the ridge with a stunning view of the ancient monastery and the olive groves below. During those late afternoons, the path comes alive with locals, joggers, and what feels like every dog in Jerusalem. It’s the kind of place where you’re guaranteed to run into a neighbor or a friend, all while catching a sunset that paints the Jerusalem stone in incredible shades of orange and pink.

Even though it’s right in the middle of the city, being there feels like finding a secret green sanctuary. Whether I was clearing my head after a long day or just taking a slow stroll to enjoy the crisp air, it was my favorite way to disconnect from the screens and soak in the local energy.

Photo: Yair Haklai, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0

5. A place that I don’t like in the city

📍 Mahane Yehuda Market on Fridays

Mahane Yehuda is the soul of Jerusalem, but on Friday afternoons, it becomes a chaotic survival test rather than a market. The crowds are so intense that the actual charm of the place gets completely buried under the rush.

If you want to experience the real magic of the Shuk, skip the Friday madness. Go on a quiet Tuesday morning or a weekday evening instead. That is when you can actually breathe, talk to the vendors, and see the market for the colorful gem it really is without being pushed around.

6. A significant person for you who was born in the city or currently lives there

For me, Amos Oz is the voice of Jerusalem’s hidden corners. While he eventually moved away, his literary soul always remained in the stony streets of Kerem Avraham. He had a unique ability to capture the city’s complex blend of melancholy, beauty, and history, making him a figure that is inseparable from the Jerusalem identity.

If you want to truly understand the city through his eyes, I highly recommend his masterpiece, A Tale of Love and Darkness. It is more than just a memoir; it is a vivid map of his childhood here during a transformative era. His writing transforms ordinary Jerusalem alleys into something poetic and profound, reminding us that every stone in this city has a story to tell. Reading his work is like taking a guided tour through the city’s heart and memory.

Photo: Bernard Gotfryd / Library of Congress

About the Author

Yonatan is a teacher and Student Advisor at Citizen Café, and a filmmaker. He spent five years in Jerusalem studying at Sam Spiegel Film School, and currently lives in Tel Aviv with his fiancée Alma.

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Hebrew Nugget:

Jerusalem: My Center of Gravity

The past year has been an emotional rollercoaster – moving from the shock, pain, and sadness of unimaginable events to the moments of hope we felt with each hostage coming home, each family reunited, and every soldier returning safely. Alongside this, we’ve found countless reasons to be grateful – for the incredible outpouring of support from civilians, and for the things we still hold dear, like our families, our partners, and our community. But these feelings are always mixed with the ache and despair that everyone in Israel still carries, even now.
I’d say the best way to describe how everyone around me is feeling is רגשות מעורבים (reh-gah-shoht meh-oh-rah-veem), which means “mixed emotions.” רגש (reh-gehsh) means “an emotion” in singular, but in plural, רגשות, it might sound feminine with the “OHT” ending. But here’s the catch: this doesn’t change the gender of the noun or the adjective that follows, which still matches the singular form. So, it’s מעורבים and not מעורבות. It’s just one of those quirks of Hebrew that’s tricky to explain.