They say home is where the heart is. I was lucky enough to grow up in a place that felt as though it had been tailored to my exact measurements – fitting my soul like a glove. Even when I tried to wander elsewhere, I could never quite escape it. Being an artist, my heart always felt most at home in Ein Hod Artist Village.
My childhood there was anything but ordinary; it was filled with colors, quiet magic, and beautiful eccentricities. Like most children, I didn’t realize how rare and special it was at the time. Ein Hod is a small artists’ village nestled at the foot of Mount Carmel, founded in 1953 by Marcel Janco together with several European artists who arrived in Israel, influenced by the Dada movement. Studio by studio, atelier by atelier, artists built homes and galleries, shaping a community devoted to art at any cost. Here, every holiday, every corner, and every person carries a colorful story. These are a few of my favorite places in the village.
1. Where do I get my coffee?
Believe it or not, I buy my coffee at the Ein Hod grocery store. Yes – the tiny village grocery! Over the years, it has changed owners and shapes more times than I can count, but remained the true social heart of the village.
It has everything: fresh vegetables and fruit, organic products, cult books, curious collectibles, and one amazing coffee machine. The entire village passes through for coffee, usually in between errands, and it’s one of the best coffees in the area (everyone agrees). There’s something beautifully rural about the fact that the café is also the grocery store. I love sitting there, running into people without planning to, dreaming up new projects and collaborations in the most casual way. If anything, this little corner reminds me of the bohemian cafés of Vienna – the kind where artists and philosophers once gathered to think, argue, and linger for hours.
2. Where do I go when I’m feeling fancy?
📍 Peigam – Ein Hod, Israel
Ein Hod is home to one of the most beautiful amphitheaters in the country – small (about 300 seats) and overlooking the sea. I’ve seen countless performances there, and even performed a few times myself. There’s something intimate and magical about it. Just above the amphitheater is a lovely little restaurant called Peigam, named after a Mediterranean herb (Peganum) that grows in Israel, drawing locals and visitors alike.
The chef is from Tel Aviv and married to a local, which feels like the perfect mix. The food is fresh, Mediterranean, boutique in spirit, with thoughtful cocktails and wine, and that relaxed, unpretentious atmosphere. Sitting there at sunset with a glass of wine, dressed in my prettiest skirt, just because, is one of life’s simple joys.
3. Cultural hub
Without a doubt, the cultural hub of the village for me is the Ein Hod Gallery. This gallery was founded by the first comers and is constantly evolving. It has two spaces in an old building, and so much has happened there – huge parties, international exhibitions, and even my Bat Mitzvah took place there, because that’s how things were done back then.
The gallery really captures the artistic and social mosaic of the village. It’s multidisciplinary, with a strong focus on contemporary art. Exhibitions follow a theme and change every three months, and the space also hosts performances, dance events, and artist talks. Beyond the programming, it’s a place where many local and visiting artists meet – it has this wonderful energy that connects everyone.
Photo: Israel Preker / PikiWiki Israel (CC BY 2.5).
4. My go-to outdoor spot
It was hard to choose a single spot, because the whole village is nestled in the forest, on the foot of Carmel mountain. Everything is outdoors here! Still, one of my favorite places has always been the olive grove of Ein Hod.
As a teenager, I would go there almost every morning, just to sit, listen, and wander. There’s a remarkable calm and pastoral beauty there, and more often than not, I’d bump into a friend who happened to be walking as well. The ancient olive trees, some over 400 years old, radiate a deep, grounding serenity. Each season brings a new palette, and the grove transforms with color. I can understand why so many artists choose this spot to paint; it feels like stepping into a living canvas.
5. A place that I don’t like in the city
So, the village sits right in the middle of nature, and I was a nature kid. That’s why the place I’ve always liked the least in the village has been the stretch between the olive grove and the main road. It’s a spot of sudden friction: noise, shouting, traffic, and a completely different energy.
As a child, I had many dogs, and sadly, quite a few of them were hit by a car on that road, which broke my heart. I’ve always thought of it a little like people: the downside of living in such a secluded place is that encounters with the “real world” can be harsh, even dangerous at times. I’m still learning how to find the connection.
Photo: Hanay / Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 3.0)
6. A significant person for you who was born in the city or currently lives there
A person who has always inspired me deeply is one of the founders of the village and a remarkable artist in her own right – the dancer and choreographer Gertrud Kraus. An extraordinary woman, she came from Europe and established a dance studio in the village, where she lived with her partner for many years until she passed away. She divided her life between Europe and Ein Hod and is recognized as one of the pioneers of dance in Israel, renowned around the world.
Her residence later became “Gertrud House” – a very special, almost enchanted stone house that now hosts chamber performances and rotating exhibitions. For me, Gertrud embodies the original spirit of the village: bold, innovative, different, an artist through and through. Every time I step inside and look at her photos, I feel a surge of strength and inspiration, a reminder that art has its place, that it is vital and worthy, and that it’s worth fighting for.
Over the years, I’ve lived in many places – from New York to Tel Aviv, even in a kibbutz in the Arava, and somehow, like a magnet, the village has always pulled me back. Living in such a beautiful place: it’s hard to want to leave, yet sometimes you have to.
These days, there’s a renewed energy in Ein Hod, with young artists and families moving in, and many returning to build a home here. I am profoundly grateful for the privilege of being “an Ein Hod local”; it’s a gift I carry with me every day.
