FOOD

The Alternative Market Route

Israel’s Hidden Culinary Gems

Abigail Zamir
|
4 min read
Israeli Market Scene

If you wish to experience true culinary freedom and enjoy a variety of flavors in a new country, the best place to experience that would be the open marketplace. In Israel, there are dozens of open markets, but the major ones are in the heart of these three cities: Tel Aviv, Jerusalem, and Haifa. As you walk through the narrow alleyways of each market, you’ll get to choose where you want to eat and which produce you want to buy. You can also witness firsthand how Israel is truly a melting pot of many different cultures. Incredible food stands from East to West offer savory and sweet delights, Mediterranean and European restaurants offer affordable lunch menus, and in the evening, bars and upscale eateries open their doors to those who look for a more refined dining experience. Forget the Instagram hotspots and tourist magnets: in this article, I want to take you to the real stop-worthy culinary gems, ones that once you’ve visited them, you’ll always want to come back.

The Tikva Market: The Bukharian Bakery המאפייה הבוכרית 

There are three famous local markets in Tel Aviv: Hacarmel, HaTikva (Hope) Market, and the Flea Market in Jaffa. Of these three, HaTikva is actually the least touristic, perhaps because of its location near the Central Bus Station and the southern train station of Tel Aviv. However, don’t let this fact discourage you from visiting this rich, vibrant market. Your starting point should be the Bukharian Bakery, established in 1994, making it one of the longest-standing institutions in this market.

Bukhara is a city in Uzbekistan that has been a major center of Jewish life in Central Asia. Following the collapse of the Soviet Union in the early nineties, a wave of Bukharian Jewish immigrants brought their centuries-old culinary traditions to Israel, establishing this unique bakery in south Tel Aviv. The bakery’s counters now display an array of tempting delicacies: Gojgiza (savory dough pockets filled with meat and onion), Samboosak (baked, crispy pastries with mashed potatoes, pumpkin or meat), and Bichak (both savory and sweet varieties), among others. Each culture has its own staple pastry, whether it’s filled with meat, cheese, vegetables, jam, or sweet cheese. If you haven’t tried Bukharian pastries yet, HaTikva Market offers a delicious gateway to this lesser-known but remarkable culinary tradition.

Pastry

📍Location: Chanoch St 52, Tel Aviv-Yafo.

Mahane Yehuda Market: Dwiny Pita Bar דוויני 

I am originally from Jerusalem, so naturally I’m biased and generally in love with too many spots around the city, particularly within Mahane Yehuda Market. But if I had to pick one place that is a little bit more hidden and outside the main streets, the choice is pretty obvious: Dwiny Pita Bar. The establishment, named after owner Diny Kassorla‘s childhood nickname given to her by her grandfather, serves incredible food that is simple and unpretentious. At Dwiny, every element is made in-house: from the freshly baked pitas to the homemade almond arak. Her menu features wonderful dishes like fish shawarma, osso buco, cauliflower, mushroom arais, and more, served in open or closed pitas with unique “three stages” fries on the side. The no-cutlery policy encourages hands-on dining, creating an intimate experience that Jerusalem locals have completely embraced.

At the risk of sounding cliché, when you walk into Dwiny‘s, you really feel that this place is run with a great love for food and genuine hospitality that reflects the city’s character. My bias aside, it’s worth the detour.

Pita pocket filled with yummy food

📍Location: Beit Ya’akov St 6, Jerusalem.

Talpiot Market: Thai in the Market התאילנדית בשוק

This is hands down the best place to eat in the Talpiot Market in Haifa, and perhaps in the entire city (you won’t think I’m exaggerating once you’ve tried it). Serving authentic Thai food at very reasonable prices, this simple Thai restaurant sits in the middle of the market in Haifa and is always full. The design is very modest, service is efficient and friendly, but the kitchen is run by chef Nee Sangsuwan, one of the former chefs of the Thai Embassy in Israel, and her son Guy Blau. Many dishes are served in either full or half portions, which is a huge advantage since it encourages diners to try more of the menu.

Dishes you absolutely cannot miss, in my humble opinion, are: the Som Tam salad – a green papaya salad served with lime juice, peanuts, tomatoes and chilies; Gaeng Khiao Wan – spicy green curry served with small Asian eggplants, kaffir lime leaves and your choice of protein; and Pad See Ew – brown stir-fried noodles that are sweet, savory and delicious. In a country that has embraced Thai cuisine with remarkable enthusiasm, Thai in the Market stands out through its unpretentious approach that reminds us why Israelis fell in love with these bold, comforting flavors in the first place.

Thai Cuisine

📍Location: Lunz St 4, Haifa.

About the Author

Abigail Zamir is a content writer and Hebrew teacher at Citizen Café. She holds a Master’s in Theatre Arts, and has a never-ending love for Israeli cinema, short stories, and biking along the promenade by the sea in Tel Aviv.

Abigail Zamir

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Hebrew Nugget:

The Alternative Market Route

Israeli Market Scene
If you wish to experience true culinary freedom and enjoy a variety of flavors in a new country, the best place to experience that would be the open marketplace. In Israel, there are dozens of open markets, but the major ones are in the heart of these three cities: Tel Aviv, Jerusalem, and Haifa. As you walk through the narrow alleyways of each market, you’ll get to choose where you want to eat and which produce you want to buy. You can also witness firsthand how Israel is truly a melting pot of many different cultures. Incredible food stands from East to West offer savory and sweet delights, Mediterranean and European restaurants offer affordable lunch menus, and in the evening, bars and upscale eateries open their doors to those who look for a more refined dining experience. Forget the Instagram hotspots and tourist magnets: in this article, I want to take you to the real stop-worthy culinary gems, ones that once you’ve visited them, you’ll always want to come back.

The Tikva Market: The Bukharian Bakery המאפייה הבוכרית 

There are three famous local markets in Tel Aviv: Hacarmel, HaTikva (Hope) Market, and the Flea Market in Jaffa. Of these three, HaTikva is actually the least touristic, perhaps because of its location near the Central Bus Station and the southern train station of Tel Aviv. However, don’t let this fact discourage you from visiting this rich, vibrant market. Your starting point should be the Bukharian Bakery, established in 1994, making it one of the longest-standing institutions in this market.

Bukhara is a city in Uzbekistan that has been a major center of Jewish life in Central Asia. Following the collapse of the Soviet Union in the early nineties, a wave of Bukharian Jewish immigrants brought their centuries-old culinary traditions to Israel, establishing this unique bakery in south Tel Aviv. The bakery’s counters now display an array of tempting delicacies: Gojgiza (savory dough pockets filled with meat and onion), Samboosak (baked, crispy pastries with mashed potatoes, pumpkin or meat), and Bichak (both savory and sweet varieties), among others. Each culture has its own staple pastry, whether it’s filled with meat, cheese, vegetables, jam, or sweet cheese. If you haven’t tried Bukharian pastries yet, HaTikva Market offers a delicious gateway to this lesser-known but remarkable culinary tradition.

Pastry 📍Location: Chanoch St 52, Tel Aviv-Yafo.

Mahane Yehuda Market: Dwiny Pita Bar דוויני 

I am originally from Jerusalem, so naturally I’m biased and generally in love with too many spots around the city, particularly within Mahane Yehuda Market. But if I had to pick one place that is a little bit more hidden and outside the main streets, the choice is pretty obvious: Dwiny Pita Bar. The establishment, named after owner Diny Kassorla‘s childhood nickname given to her by her grandfather, serves incredible food that is simple and unpretentious. At Dwiny, every element is made in-house: from the freshly baked pitas to the homemade almond arak. Her menu features wonderful dishes like fish shawarma, osso buco, cauliflower, mushroom arais, and more, served in open or closed pitas with unique “three stages” fries on the side. The no-cutlery policy encourages hands-on dining, creating an intimate experience that Jerusalem locals have completely embraced.

At the risk of sounding cliché, when you walk into Dwiny‘s, you really feel that this place is run with a great love for food and genuine hospitality that reflects the city’s character. My bias aside, it’s worth the detour.

Pita pocket filled with yummy food 📍Location: Beit Ya’akov St 6, Jerusalem.

Talpiot Market: Thai in the Market התאילנדית בשוק

This is hands down the best place to eat in the Talpiot Market in Haifa, and perhaps in the entire city (you won’t think I’m exaggerating once you’ve tried it). Serving authentic Thai food at very reasonable prices, this simple Thai restaurant sits in the middle of the market in Haifa and is always full. The design is very modest, service is efficient and friendly, but the kitchen is run by chef Nee Sangsuwan, one of the former chefs of the Thai Embassy in Israel, and her son Guy Blau. Many dishes are served in either full or half portions, which is a huge advantage since it encourages diners to try more of the menu.

Dishes you absolutely cannot miss, in my humble opinion, are: the Som Tam salad – a green papaya salad served with lime juice, peanuts, tomatoes and chilies; Gaeng Khiao Wan – spicy green curry served with small Asian eggplants, kaffir lime leaves and your choice of protein; and Pad See Ew – brown stir-fried noodles that are sweet, savory and delicious. In a country that has embraced Thai cuisine with remarkable enthusiasm, Thai in the Market stands out through its unpretentious approach that reminds us why Israelis fell in love with these bold, comforting flavors in the first place.

Thai Cuisine

📍Location: Lunz St 4, Haifa.